website <\/a>that gave me ideas of places to visit I hadn’t been to, picked a few and planned my days more or less accordingly. In the end I modulated the order of things based on a few factors like time to settle, when to rent a car….and weather forecast, and I must admit, every day turned out to be kind of ideally timed and ordered. In that way, it was, for me, a good feat of sticking to the plan but adapting it, lucky break after lucky break, optimised decisions, just very much what I like: some degree of improvisation, natural luck and…….I don’t know, in spite of all the shit I’ve fucked up, sometimes I’m still truly blessed. Anyway let’s start the day by day ‘blog’.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Day 1<\/strong> : Agios Nikolaos.<\/strong> I arrived in Heraklion at 11.45pm the previous night, taxi pick up (my name on a sign!) as I wasn’t part of a group (something I had absolutely no idea about when I booked!), at the hotel at about 1am, the first day was never going to be the busiest and I thought I’d just do a little discovery of my immediate surroundings. So a walk towards town via the Marina and the Port, the Horn of Amalthea and on to Lake Voulismeni. On the way I noticed the boat to Spinalonga so took a leaflet to see if doing it that way sounded like a good plan. A little stop for lunch (Souvlaki!) and a glass of wine around the Lake so I just took the time to enjoy. Later just went to check Almyros beach only about five minutes walk in the opposite direction from the hotel. A book, a towel, a little dip in the water (it really wasn’t very hot…) and yeah, the wind and temperature hardly made it beach weather, but I hadn’t even been on a beach for so long it was enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nRoom with a (cloudy) view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Agios Nikolaos Marina. I’m sure the Golden Princess has seen better days.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nHorn of Almathea<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\naka Cornocupia, from the other side.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEurope!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEntering Lake Voulismeni<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n..going round to…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…Fisherman’s Crypt.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSome hidden art stored…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n..in a little room to the right.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Lake from above.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAbove and beyond.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEurope in context and a little more sunshine.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBrighter Horn on the way back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView from the point.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nCornucopia looking stylish.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne more view on the way back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nHow it looks from a distance.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nRoom with a sunnier view.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAlmyros Beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA first Ouzo.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nDigestive walk.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAgios Nikolaos<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA little cove near Almyros Beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNot a sunset but a moonrise.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPanoramic from the room.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView from the Coast between Agios Nikolaos Marina and the Horn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWaves at Almyros Beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Day 2: Spinalonga<\/strong>. After much deliberation, I decided to do Spinalonga on the Saturday rather than Tuesday. The weather was supposed to be a deciding factor, but in the end, it wasn’t anywhere near as sunny as forecast (or rather it was more cloudy than forecast), but mainly it was due to taking the time to organise rental car, and also easing myself a little rather than already go on a drive. Also 12.30pm boat departure made for a leisurely morning, so having booked my ticket, I had time to stop for a little extra coffee and fresh orange juice by the sea. That day I got soaked on the island, but also somehow managed to get a little sunburnt. I had forgotten how, at certain times of the day, it really didn’t take much exposure to get an instant hit of sun in Crete. I won’t actually relate the boat journey and back (it was slightly wet, especially on the way back when only two of us stayed on the outside deck for the whole journey), but one thing, or rather, one person worth mentioning was our guide for the actual tour of the Island (an island with a lot of history and that served as a leper ‘colony’ for the early part of the twentieth century). She was clearly passionate about the island, interactive, interesting, engaging, but more than anything else, her closing speech was what touched me. Just the emotion in it, the compassion coming out, a great sample of humanism and how the story of the lepers here engages our humanity, forgiveness, and forever hope of love and better times. Actually, I can’t express in words what she conveyed, best you can do is do the same visit and hear her. She really got to my heart there. Sure she has to say it every day while I hear it only once, so maybe it still means more to me than to her, but I (want to) doubt it. And we’re back to the desired theme of this site: sharing. And gratitude (something else I’ve learnt better again this year, still indirectly from the same person who seems to have forgotten to appreciate it at times (not a dig, a regret at expressed gratitude being misinterpreted, I know the situation is a lot more complicated, and different seen from the other side), and so I made a point of thanking her on exiting the boat, and not with many words, just a thank you and touching my heart, sometimes I remember I really don’t need to get lost in words, does it only depend on me? I digress, but in spite of the weather, it felt like a beautiful day on the human score. Also, the ‘guided’ bit of the island tour lasted only about 30-40 minutes, so we had an hour to roam free around the island, I got to the top, explored, and it was really nice. A little ouzo polished off the day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nApproaching Spinalonga Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNavigating around…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…through the old gate..<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and around.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe Island in Full (gallery format sadly cuts the edges).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nVenetian House<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nColourful blinds…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…of more recent (Ottoman) period.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSome Art hidden inside.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAnother colour.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe nearest village is Plaka where supplies used to arrive from.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe old main entrance to the Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNow walking along the…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…Venetian fortification…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…nice walk…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…in variable weather…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…with great views…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…circled back to above our boat.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nGoing up there, lots of such cactii on the island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLooking through the holes…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nViews from the top of the Island.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAbove the sea…(I got drenched)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…looking down at the village.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBack through Carbonana Gate.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne last goodbye…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and we’re off….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…in better weather.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOne last Island to go past…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and we’re back in Agios Nikolaos.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEvening walk in the resort, the only time I saw the pool.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNavigating the seas (remembering I was oddly sea sick on my first cross-Channel seafare, but been absolutely fine since).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe view from the old entrance to the Island.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nVery windy on top of the island, I didn’t go too close to the edge…<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Day 3: Lassithi Plateau.<\/strong> Now with car, I took a drive. I even bought a map in the hotel shop, which proved useful at the start, until I realised that Google Maps, for all its faults and Big Brother horror is very very handy. So to get there in the first place, I used the map, and while I wasn’t certain which way to go at the start, I opted to go via the old Heraklion Road, thinking the turn to the Plateau may not be available from the New Road. Turned out to be a good decision, as the road even before that turn was beautiful and indeed, that turn was there on the old road. The roads I drove through were of better quality than what I remembered from twenty years ago, but the main thing for this day was that there was hardly anyone else on the road, so I didn’t feel stressed by driving too slowly\/too quickly, I could take my time, stop to take a photo here and there or just marvel at the scenery. Also, this was the only proper ‘inland’ drive I did, so through the mountains, but in fact, it doesn’t matter if it was this road (though it was obviously more pronounced there) or coastal roads, there’s hardly any flat in Crete, so you always go up and down. I followed the signs to the Psychro (Dikteon) Cave, very touristy place there, but I managed to find a place to park before I took the walk up to the cave. Not a very big cave, but fairly impressive and beautiful. Also the lighting is well done, because the photos look a lot differen than reality, a lot more green!<\/p>\n\n\n\nI had spotted some lakes on the down part drive to the plateau, but in a more or less random way, I picked up something on Google Maps this time that said ‘Havas Gorge Trailhead’. Thought it would lead me to some gorge to trek through, but in fact it was nowhere near, just the start of the trail of an invisible Gorge (well one way was blocked by private property). I reached the designated point via some tracks (rather than road, but still drivable, I’ve seen much worse in the Pyr\u00e9n\u00e9es), left the car there and went for a walk around. As it turned out I was pretty near the lake (lakes in fact), but both were not accessible, fully fenced, so you could just look from outside. Never mind, I had a decent walk around to occupy a part of the afternoon, before driving back for just a little beach time (I obviously wasn’t going to the beach to suntan as I always got there at 4-4.30pm when it was not so sunny and not very warm). And then a slightly different plan, as Arsenal were playing at Newcastle (6.30pm kick-off on these shores), and I’d found a bar that was showing it so why not? Celtic were playing just before and just won the SPL title, so there were a few (civilised) Celtic fans, didn’t seem much of an Arsenal contingent (and during the game it seems the remaining ‘Celts’ were cheering on Newcastle, though there was a small group of people who arrived and a woman who cheered for the Arsenal), so I ordered my first pint of the stay (no ouzo tonight!). Arsenal won a tense match, all was well. As it was a bar not a pub, local customs applied so service at the table. Which was a bit of a shock to me as all expats population and English lady serving felt very pub like. Still, for the next two pints, I got my order at the bar and got served there as it felt the most natural thing. The lady apologised saying really she should go around the bar to serve me, but while I was actually sitting at at table, that table was about 50cm from the bar, so I think that would have been a bit of a waste of energy, no matter how nice, so I reassured here that it really didn’t matter at all (by then she could work out I was a tourist….). Also, it’s always been my attitude that whatever does not cost me much of an effort and makes someone else’s life easier is worth it. But now I know not to get abused by people who actually expect it. So she wished me happy holidays when I left. Again, it’s people like that who make the world a better place; the fleeting encounters of nice and heartwarming people, twice in two days, was a high point of my stay, got some way to rekindling my faith in the human kind. So yes, Zeus’ birthplace, a nice walk, an Arsenal win and friendly people. Not a bad day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nOn the road. Always loads of churches in the middle of nowhere by the side of the mountains.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nDecent weather at the start on beautiful mountain roads.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nGetting darker by Katakalou Windmills.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAnother Church by the side of the road.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nMy ride for the next three days.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLess ancient windmills.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nLassithi Plateau seen from high above on the way to Psychro Cave.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAka Dikteon Andron<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSpectacular stalactites<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSome impressive shapes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThere’s an opening…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA little inner lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThis was not the set of Aliens.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nYou could have gone up there on a donkey, but I’m enough of an ass already.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSome pretty wildflowers.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nRambling along under the clouds.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nFirst fenced lake.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA biigger fenced lake\/reservoir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nCan’t touch the water.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSheep!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nSlightly brighter on the way back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nEnjoying the scenery.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAnd more cute isolated churches.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nI had to give way….<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nNicer weather by the coast on the way to the beach…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA working windmill!!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOverlooking Lassithi Plateau.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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Day 4: Richtis Gorge.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\nDecided to start not too early as this was only a short-ish drive away and I got slightly tipsy the night before. A drive East this time, and the wonder of a coastal road. Breathtaking views all along. I couldn’t stop to take pictures on the way (as I was on the wrong side of the road), but spotted a few places where I might be able to stop on the way back. Obviously, no photo from my shitty phone does justice to any of the places I saw. Also digital camera….twenty years ago when I had a normal one, I felt I was already taking too many photos, but now, you shoot you shoot and think you’ll sort it out later. That’s not optimisation, and I’m afraid my quality control lets me down as I keep wondering and marvelling and so feel everything is worth immortalising. I’m writing all the lines before selecting the photos and I know I’ll have a lot of work to do. And probably won’t do it so well. I know someone who does that a lot better. Anyway, so I eventually reached the car park in the little village of Exo Mouliana, there is an official car park near the start of the Gorge in fact. I got a little confused by Google Maps but decided to stop at that well defined car park rather than follow the road down. Very happy with my choice in the end as it allowed a better walk overall and a much better option that I would have taken (more on that anon). I started following that signposted touristy road, but checking with Maps in parallel, it was not the way I ‘expected’ (but that’s the limits of Google Maps as I found out just a little later). So I decided to trace my step backs and follow Google Maps. At first it was very confusing, I got back to the village, got lost on some private way going down, until I changed tack and thought right, first, among the options given, I’ll just follow the marked roads\/ways until I’m definitely out of the village. I eventually found myself on a road marked ‘Richtis Beach’. Now, the way I had envisaged this trek, was to go through the Gorge and then reach the beach and lie down there for half an hour or so, maybe have a dip in the sea. And no idea of the way back, but I expected same way I would have gone (not knowing what it LOOKED like).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
As it turned out, the confusion caused by Google Maps (and in some way the absurdity of it), made the trek maybe longer, but actually much more what I wanted: going in a round circuit rather than retracing steps. I still had ‘Richtis Gorge’ as target, but amusingly, GM only had a little dotted line going from the point they said you were there to the gorge. What was it about? No idea: but the ‘you have arrived’ was just a turn in the road overlooking a precipice. Oh so you mean I have to tumble down to reach the Gorge? Clever but not much use. Anyway, so I continued the winding road down onto the beach much much further away. I had forgotten that ‘beach’ didn’t necessarily mean ‘sand’ : it was a rather rocky beach, and I could quickly forget the idea of a dip and lie down. Fair enough, I’d just be back maybe quicker to Almyros Beach later for that. Also today was the day when the weather was at its best, in fact, it was practically the only day of nearly uninterrupted sunshine. I was mostly wearing a cap (though the wind made it not so easy), which I hate to do, but protection does matter in this sort of sunshine, so I didn’t feel badly burnt. And now, onto the way back to the gorge. Small entrance fee, and you’re on, for about 4km walks of rocks and pathways not always so clearly indicated, and a lot of natural beauty and water. The most beautiful bit is naturally Richtis Fall which you reach after a little less than half an hour coming from the beach. There’s about an hour left of the gorge to go then. It’s not such a comfortable walk, and if you undertake it, I advise if possible that you wear suitable footwear. I’m obviously not saying ‘not smart shoes or heels’, but more ‘rambling shoes’ if you have them rather than sneakers. I have to admit I was a bit on the slippery edge at times with a pair of Vans, though they were not the worst pair of Vans I could have used. Small note when at the fall. They have put a table there for picnic. Which is quite nice and a good idea if there’s nobody else. But as it is, and because there is not much room to actually get to the fall bit, it’s a bit of an annoyance: I don’t like disrupting people, so as there were people there, and little wiggle room, I didn’t quite get the best view I could have got. I think that’s something they could have done without, given the space at disposal, although it is indeed, a perfect and wonderful picnic place so……yeah tough luck maybe. Anyway, I ended up back to the car park the way I would\/should have initially taken, but very glad I hadn’t: if I had been to the official near-the-beach (very small) car park, then I’d probably have had to walk the gorge back, and quite frankly this is not an appealing proposition. Or if I’d gone the other way from my car park, I am not sure I would have been aware of the long way back around the mountains, so again, no better way back? For all of Google Maps’ fuckery, it lucked me into a long circular walk that I enjoyed much more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Blessings all around in that trip. The drive back was nice, I stopped a couple of times to take a few photos before another hour on the beach near the hotel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ouzo for ap\u00e9ritif, the barman remembered my room number and was treating me very well. I guess the little things like bringing your glass back to the bar when finished helped too, but again see above regarding the pub. It’s the little things (and I’m not the only one obviously and thankfully….someone once did it for me while I was daydreaming away for a moment as we were leaving a place, and I clumsily felt the need to apologise for not having done it first). Another lovely day, the most physical of the lot, thoroughly enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
<\/p>\n\n\n\n\nA bright and beautiful morning this time.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nOn the road again.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nStarting the trek down…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…past some (olive?) trees before turning back.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nAlternate path, aiming for Exo Mouliana.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nPast Agios Georgios Church (in the village this time).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nGetting lost down there.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nWalk by the mountainside (village in the distance)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nReaching the sea again.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA little more way to go…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…but the beach was hiding down there.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nRichtis Beach, looking West…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and looking East.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nStarting the trek through the gorge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe beautiful Richtis Waterfall.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nUp the stairs…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…across the stream…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…and through the rocks… <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n…until the exit at Lachanas Bridge.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nUnforgettable scenery.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nThe stunning views from the coastal road.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nBack towards Almyros Beach.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\nA most beautiful day.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n<\/video><\/figure>\n\n\n\nView on the descent to Richtis Beach.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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